There’s been growing interest on the issue of Galamsey which has been headlining most media and public conversations in recent times. Several institutions and individuals are calling for a total ban on small-scale mining as a way of dealing with its devastating effect on our water bodies, communities and forests.
Galamsey isn’t the only menace we’ve been battling with as a country. Plastic and Textile Waste have also been polluting our beaches and environment which equally needs our attention too. In this article, I will be focusing on Textile waste which is caused by Fast Fashion.
Fast fashion, a trend-driven, mass production of low-cost clothing has raised significant concerns globally, particularly in countries like Ghana, where its impact extends beyond mere consumer habits. The debate over whether to ban fast fashion has been growing due to the environmental, economic, and social consequences of the industry. While some argue that banning fast fashion could mitigate its devastating effects, others highlight the potential economic disruptions such a ban could cause.
In a recent report shared on Facebook and Linkedin by Greenpeace International, it highlights how Ghana’s beaches are being buried in textile waste. Their study reveals that “Every week, approximately 15 million items of clothing are received in Ghana, but nearly half of these clothes are unsellable. Many used clothes end up in informal dumpsites or burned in public washhouses.”
Not long after that release, The OR Foundation also shared their position on Instagram making a case for why we must not ban second-hand clothing. It states that over 30,000 professionals work in Katanmanto and an immediate ban will create an unemployment gap.
In this article, I will examine both sides of the argument, drawing on insights from Greenpeace International and The OR Foundation, two prominent organizations with opposing views on the matter.
The Case for a Ban: Greenpeace International’s Perspective
Greenpeace International, an environmental NGO, has long called attention to the destructive nature of fast fashion. In their view, the environmental toll of fast fashion is reason enough for Ghana to consider an outright ban. The country is already grappling with massive waste management challenges, exacerbated by the influx of cheap, low-quality garments that often end up in landfills or as pollution in oceans. Kantamanto Market in Accra, one of the largest second-hand clothing markets in West Africa, has become a symbol of this crisis. Although the market thrives on reselling used clothing, much of the fast fashion that makes its way to Ghana is so poorly made that it is essentially unsellable.
Greenpeace has pointed out the toxic production processes that are characteristic of the fast fashion industry. The use of synthetic fabrics like polyester, which do not biodegrade and release microplastics into waterways, compounds the issue. Additionally, the overuse of chemicals and the vast amounts of water required to produce these garments strain ecosystems. For a country like Ghana, which is already vulnerable to climate change, the environmental burden of fast fashion could have far-reaching consequences for future generations. For this, they are calling on the global north to stop exporting its fast fashion waste problem.
According to Greenpeace, a ban on the importation of textile “dead waste” immediately would not only curb pollution but also promote sustainable alternatives, such as locally produced and recycled clothing. Such a move could spark a cultural shift toward mindful consumption, where quality and longevity will be prioritized over cheap and disposable garments. The ban could also foster innovation in Ghana’s textile industry, encouraging the development of eco-friendly fabrics and sustainable production practices. Greenpeace believes that while there would be economic disruption initially, the long-term environmental and social benefits of a ban would far outweigh these costs.
Other demands include, a call for mechanisms to make polluters and clothes companies pay for the environmental and health damage they cause while demanding for the implementation of effective Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes to hold companies accountable for the full lifecycle of their products.
The Case Against a Ban: The OR Foundation’s Perspective
On the other hand, The OR Foundation, a nonprofit organization focused on fashion’s social and environmental impact, offers a more nuanced perspective on fast fashion’s presence in Ghana. While acknowledging the environmental harm, The OR Foundation cautions against a ban, arguing that it may create more problems than it solves.
The organization highlights that Ghana’s informal economy is heavily reliant on the second-hand clothing trade. Kantamanto Market, for instance, is a lifeline for many Ghanaians, providing income to thousands of traders, tailors, and small business owners who rely on the resale of imported clothing. A ban on fast fashion could decimate these livelihoods, as the market’s supply chain depends significantly on imports from countries like the U.S., U.K., and China, where fast fashion dominates. The OR Foundation emphasizes that rather than imposing a blanket ban, Ghana should focus on regulating the quality of clothing imports to ensure that only reusable or repairable garments are brought into the country.
The OR Foundation also stresses that the conversation surrounding fast fashion must consider the global inequities at play. Fast fashion’s rise is fuelled by overproduction in wealthier nations, while countries like Ghana bear the environmental and economic brunt of the waste. Rather than targeting Ghana for a ban, The OR Foundation calls for a reduction in production volumes and a systemic overhaul of the global fashion industry, where wealthy nations take responsibility for the waste they generate and where companies are held accountable for the life cycle of their products.
In addition, the foundation advocates for greater investment in Ghana’s capacity to manage textile waste and build a circular economy. They argue that developing a comprehensive recycling infrastructure, alongside educating consumers about sustainable fashion choices, would better equip the country to handle the challenges posed by fast fashion. This approach could preserve jobs in the second-hand clothing sector while mitigating environmental harm. The OR Foundation believes that banning fast fashion without these critical investments would be an incomplete solution, leaving Ghana vulnerable to unintended consequences.
The Path Forward: How Does Ghana Win?
Both Greenpeace and The OR Foundation raise valid concerns about the fast fashion crisis in Ghana, but their recommendations lead to different conclusions. Greenpeace calls for a strong stance in banning fast fashion, driven by the need to protect Ghana’s environment from further degradation. Meanwhile, The OR Foundation warns of the economic fallout such a ban might cause, particularly for those in Katamanto whose livelihoods depend on the second-hand clothing trade.
For Ghana to emerge victorious, a middle ground may be necessary. Rather than outright banning fast fashion, the government could implement policies that both address the environmental issues and preserve the economic benefits of the second-hand clothing market. This might involve stricter regulations on the quality of clothing imports, requiring that they meet certain sustainability standards. At the same time, investing in local recycling infrastructure and incentivizing the production of sustainable textiles could create new jobs while reducing reliance on imported goods.
Education campaigns aimed at encouraging consumers to make more sustainable fashion choices could further help shift demand away from fast fashion toward higher quality, locally made products. By balancing environmental concerns with economic realities, Ghana can chart a path that mitigates the worst impacts of fast fashion while ensuring that its citizens continue to thrive.
In conclusion, while the debate over whether to ban fast fashion remains contentious, one thing is clear: the status quo cannot continue. Whether through a ban, regulation, or investment in sustainable alternatives, Ghana must take decisive action to address the fast fashion crisis, not just for the sake of the environment but for the future well-being of its people.
The writer is Faith Senam Ocloo. She’s a PR Consultant, Fashion Writer and founder of Nueva Comms (formerly known as E’April Public Relations). She has a combined experience of 12 years of acquired knowledge and skills from diverse fields of work in the areas of Public Relations and Strategic Communication, Project and Event Management, Customer Relations, Brands Marketing and Social Media Management. She’s available via faithsenam@gmail.com